Mexican wave in London

Last weekend Mr. R and I invited some friends to sample lovely passion fruit caipirinhas at Mocoto in Knightsbridge. As we got there, we found it was shut down for good. But why? Mocoto was pretty much the only decent (and more upmarket) Brazilian restaurant in London and yet they only lasted 6 months... It did not seem fair, especially when one considers the undeserved success of Brazilian steakhouse Rodizio Rico, with its tacky decor and sub par food.

Mocoto's closure also coincides with a time when Mexican "street food" restaurants are thriving. Being Brazilian myself I usually avoid comparing both cuisines but, in this instance, I do think Brazilian food entrepreneurs in London should be drawing inspiration from the Mexican winning concept (informal atmosphere, quality fresh ingredients, plenty of healthy choices, refreshing drinks, plate sharing), instead of trying to compete in the saturated fine dining segment.

They are the top 5 Mexicans:

Wahaca (as in Oaxaca)

New kid on the block on busy theatreland location (between both Opera houses and close to most theatres and Covent Garden).

Plus: Very fresh ingredients, great fish tacos, lighter options (you can opt to wrap your tacos in baby gem lettuce instead of corn tortillas). The churros with chocolate looked amazing (I bravely resisted on my first visit but won't next time).

Minus: no ceviche (!!!), gloopy guacamole (I'm with An American in London on that one), the big queues after the press fanfare.

Mexicali

The mini chain. Branches in Notting Hill and Fulham Road (I am praying they have no wild dreams of expanding like the ubiquitous Gourmet Burger Kitchen).

Plus: The coriander infused egg burrito (breakfast burrito) reminded me of past trips to the state of Nayarit in the Pacific - it was so fresh. Tasty carnitas (slow cooked pork), guacamole and salsa are chunky and delicious.

Minus: not licenced to sell alcohol (at least not in the Fulham Road branch), they should tone down the "our food is super healthy" spin - after all, most of their items contain cheese! Menu less varied than the competition's.

Taqueria

One of the pioneers (along with Crazy Homies - see below).

Plus: the varied menu, really good "Black beans de la Olla" (I love my black beans), yummy tamales and a good choice of aguas frescas (flavored water with fresh lemon, cucumber or hibiscus), delicious Mexican hot chocolate (with cinnamon).

Minus: can be overly spicy, churros are served with ice cream instead of dipping chocolate sauce (big mistake!).

Crazy Homies

The indie one, just next door to fabulous diner Lucky Seven

Plus: great margaritas, wonderfully crispy taquitos al pastor (pork), great ceviche, indie atmosphere with amazing soundtrack (I can't think of any other London place where you can enjoy great Mexican food while listening to the Strokes and Queens of the Stone Age). I could praise these guys forever, they are one of my top London spots...

Minus: get there early or queue for ages (it is as tiny as its sister restaurants Lucky Seven and Tom's deli)

Green and Red

The East one (it's in Shoreditch).

Pluses and minuses: yet to be tested... Look out for report in due course.




Granted, none of these London eateries can challenge the supremacy of the NY Mexican scene (Nolita's La Esquina is my taco heaven) but they are still a huge improvement from the old - and thankfully forgotten - days when chili con carne, nachos and fajitas passed for Mexican food...