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Wednesday, October 31, 2007

Happy Halloween!

Jonathan Harker
11 Forsythe Place
Chelsea

My friend,

Welcome to the Carpathians. I am anxiously expecting you.
At the Borgo Pass, my carriage will await you and bring you to me.
I trust your journey from London has been a happy one and that you will enjoy your stay in my beautiful land.

Your friend

D




Time to dust off my old DVD and revisit this Victorian Gothic classic...


Wednesday, October 24, 2007

The Joys of Victorian Gloom


Which one is which? "A Jersey Lily" (portrait of Lillie Langtry) by Millais
and "White Chalk" album cover.


I'm not exactly the first person to say that PJ Harvey has covered herself in Victorian gloom (some even say "Bronte-esque" gloom, others "Gothic fairytale") to produce the haunting tracks from her new album White Chalk.

But on a recent expedition to the John Everett Millais retrospective at the Tate Britain I decided to test these tracks against the Victorian backdrop of paintings such as Ophelia (see below) and Mariana and - ta dah! - together they worked like a charm: PJ's lonesome tunes interacting perfectly with Millais's atmospheric paintings.

Of course this idea of pairing music and art is neither new, nor ground breaking and I bet many of you also use your Ipods as museum companions. The challenge is to find perfect matches between "music" and "museum", a concept my friend D. and I first came across during the V&A's Sights and Sounds project a few years ago (which matched for instance Elizabeth Fraser to Renaissance drawings). I now believe a well chosen soundtrack can make such visits more memorable and personal than audio guides.

So, if you are a PJ Harvey fan, I really recommend the Millais exhibition or, at least, a visit to Tate Britain's Room 15 (the one with J.W. Waterhouse's The Lady of Shalott and Saint Eulalia) while listening to tracks "Dear Darkness" or "Silence". And if you are a Victorian/Pre-Raphaelite art fan, lose yourself in the laudanum-induced sounds of White Chalk .

PS: On a related note, I just read (with gasps of excitement) in this site that a full John William Waterhouse retrospective is coming up (2008/2009). Oh joy!


Picture: Millais's Ophelia, Tate Britain


Saturday, October 20, 2007

Winter's almost here: it's tea time again!


One of my first posts since starting this blog was about the top tea spots in London and Paris. I was surprised to see that it generated not only great feedback (thanks Mom ; ) !) but also some google hits (thanks to whoever dropped by to visit!).

While that post listed the more traditional afternoon tea spots, I have since compiled a list of my favorite London tea places which are a little "off the beaten track". By making afternoon tea a little bit more relaxed - no booking, no dressing up - but not less of a gastronomic treat, some of these places are doing a great job keeping tea culture alive and brewing.

I hope you find this list useful:


Tea, Paternoster Square (in the heart of London’s financial district)

You may have never thought of cream tea as a lunchtime treat but, judging by the number of customers munching on scones at midday, a lot of people have! This is a "Pain Quotidien" style café (ie. communal tables) with a varied tea menu and a nice choice of green teas, white teas and oolongs alongside the more traditional black teas. You pick your tea, mix and match with cucumber or egg sandwiches, scones and lovely cakes. Sit down and relax for at least 30 minutes or for however long your lunch break allows.

Perfect for: When work is stressing you out - or anytime really (they also do breakfasts)

Order: "Monkey Picked" Oolong tea, sandwich, ginger scones, fresh berries


Peyton and Byrne, Wellcome Collection

Some of you may have seen my enthusiastic post about this new branch of Peyton and Byrne. The great choice of cakes, sweet things and nice loose leaf teas make it an ideal spot for a civilized afternoon break - you can even throw in a bit of culture with a quick tour to the permanent collection or the temporary exhibitions (free of charge).

Perfect for: a rainy day

Order: mint cupcakes, scones, a pot of tea


Shipps tearooms

A cute tea house just next to the gastronomic quarters of Borough Market. For a cozy tete-a-tete with a huge tray of fresh sandwiches (they kindly offer to wrap any leftovers for takeaway) and delicious cakes. Lovely old fashioned touches such as embroidered table cloths and vintage tea china. The only downside were the less than perfect scones (they should be warmer and less dry) but otherwise, well worth the detour to south London.

Perfect for: a gourmet break before or after a cultural hour at the Tate Modern (a 15 minute walk away)

Order: tea for two (great value at GBP 15 each)


The Caramel Room (Prêt-à-Portea), Berkeley Hotel

A more formal tea outing, given the glitzy hotel location and need for booking, but one with a modern twist: at the start of every season the pastry chefs at the Caramel Room team up with different fashion designers to create runway inspired cakes resulting in the Missoni éclair, the YSL ginger boots, the Chloe chiffon, etc. - which are available for eating in (cute Paul Smith china is an added bonus) or take away. The overly fussy canapes are my only gripe: I would be happier with the simple pleasures of cucumber, salmon or roast beef sandwiches.

Perfect for: a sugar binge on a wintry afternoon. Booking recommended.

Order: the complete set (£34, ouch!), don’t forget to ask for a refill of your favourite cakes


The Crush Room, Royal Opera House

If you are attending a matinee at the ROH you can order high tea at the pit lobby or the Crush Room (cosier and more elegant than the Floral Hall). Your table will be ready and tea will be served during performance intervals: on the first you get the sandwiches, on the second you get home made scones and lovely cakes. When I get depressed about the grey weather in London the thought of either tea or the Royal ballet usually cheer me up... both at the same time = double treat!

Perfect for: Taking the kids to see the Royal's lavish production of the Nutcracker.

Order: set tea with or without champagne (the staff will look after your champagne bottle between intervals). Telephone pre-ordering essential.